Part of the SS11 collection was focussed on photographic style prints. We were lucky enough to have been given an archive of really cool eastern bloc, cold ware era stamps amongst others. Our graphic designer made a few adjustments, turning our individual stamps in to a piece of artwork, then we put the image on screen.
During the printing process we looked at the colours we were using and started to play, adjusting the image by replacing black with violet, cyan with deep blue, magenta with orangey red. This was something we did across our full colour print styles.
This is the artwork we base our screen separation on, the colour is highly saturated to make screen more detailed.
Following on in our sketch series, this piece of artwork named 'DWIGHT', is based on New Orleans, Voodoo Blues.
Hand sketched by our designer, then screen printed on to the garment, with select detail picked out in soft yarn, hand embroidery. There is a background print on the reverse side of the garment, adding detail.
Print & soft yarn, hand embroidery on single jersey fabric.
Style; NARMADA Trouser ( 'NARMADA' = Named after a specialist fabric suppler shop in Jalan Sulawesi, Bali, Indonesia).
Front view Style NARMADA: Showing pigment painted jetted pocket openings at front and contrast fabric detail.
These trousers come in 30 / 32 / 34 / 36 inch waist with 32 inch leg length. Made from a dense, light weight, high quality cotton denim with pigment painted, jetted pocket openings at front and back of Garment and with a contrast colour yarn dye cotton pocket bags and inside hem contrast colour.
Back View Style NARMADA: Showing reverse contrast fabric at hem.
The styling follows everything we wanted from a mix between chinos for the jetted pockets, military cavalry trousers for the belt loops and waist band design, the potential to age like denim with our choice of fabric. We also wanted to follow on from our ethos with our T's and make the inside of the garment as important as the outside and added the contrast pocket bags and the possible to show the contrast by rolling back the hem a little.
Inside Style NARMADA: Our branding label with cotton silk fabric sewn over the top and contrast branding print fabric.
Back view Style NARMADA: Showing pigment painted pocket openings, painted buttons, shaping detail of back waist band and belt loops
Style; SAMPAY JUMPA COAT ( 'Sampay Jumpa' = 'See you next time' in Bahasa Indonesia).
Sampay Jumpa coat, Narmada trousers.
This coat design is based on a German military over coat which would have been worn as additional protection to uniform. As such it has vents for air flow at back yolk and under the arms. Ours is 1/2 lined with a blue and white spot print fabric, which sits really well along side the 11oz Yarn Dye stripe cotton 'ticking' fabric. The stripe fabric, a classic which would usually be used for overalls and work wear plays out a good contrast on this military garment to offer it in a new perspective.
Large centre front chest pocket and button off hood features along with under arm and shoulder vents.
Back Veiw, showing self fabric ties to 'cinch' the garment in to shape waist. (note: Ties can also be concealed at inside of garment.)
Our thinking continued down the line of wanting to offer only outer wear garments which age along with their owner, so to help this process we added a pigment effect to the surface of the fabric, increasing it's ability to age well. Over time, the seams will hold their dark colour, while the body and sleeves and other areas of stress and use will fade like any other working fabric.
We have also used painted buttons on all of our outer wear, which will age along with the garment.
Contrast 1/2 lining, in blue & white spot fabric.
Our branding is our simple leather badge, heat branded with our logo. Simple and not intrusive.
A tip of the hat is necessary, but in this instance we shall name no names! We sketched these guys out on paper, they needed some more life so we filled them with some controlled scribble, then using some hand embroidery picked out some of the detail to make the artwork flow and set the colours off against each other.
After that we printed the inside of the garment with our 'structured' stripe print, it adds another layer to the garment, great when the sleeves are rolled back a little bit. (Click on image to enlarge.)
The base T-shirt has an asymmetrical back Yolk (shoulder) portion, plus a small pleat at the centre back for some added movement when worn.
